Turn Signal Kit

I ordered a kit from WD and itā€™s supposed to be here this afternoon. I didnā€™t want to spend the money but I think itā€™s necessary with the amount of roads we run. Wish me luck with the install I may throw up some pictures. Also wish me luck after my wife sees the bill šŸ¤£
If you really want to set her off order the fender flare extensions. $450 for some plastic! Good luck with the install.
 
I finally got around to installing my Ryco turn signal kit on my XP 5. After doing the W. D. Kit on my brotherā€™s, I figured Iā€™d write about their differences.

For starters, the Ryco kit is $100 less expensive. (Both kits were with the 6 led front lights)

The W. D. kit has a smaller, and somewhat flimsy feeling, plastic turn signal switch and a separate, somewhat bulky, control box that mounts under the hood.
The horn and hazards have separate switches (the hazards/4 ways switch is a $41 add on to the kit). We had to cut in extra switch locations since all our other spare switch locations were used up.
The W. D. kit was specific for the Xpedition which was better in that the rear taillight harness plugs directly into the 8 pin harness under the bed.
Also, the W. D. kit wiring is a heavier gauge than the Ryco kit.

The Ryco kit has a little bulkier turn signal switch but itā€™s made of mostly metal and feels much more durable. It also has all the functions self contained with the horn button in the end of the switch and the hazards under the lever. The only separate controller pieces are a small flasher box and the brake light strobe, which get zip-tied with the wiring under the dash.
The Ryco kit comes as a universal kit for the Ranger, General and Xpedition. It comes with 2 rear harnesses. One has the 4 pin plug for the Generals and Rangers with the 4 pin plug under the bed and the other has tail light plugs that plug directly between the tail lights and their factory wiring. This requires a fair amount of extra work installing as you have to remove the tail lights and the heat shielding and drip edge under the bed to run the wires. Also, for anyone wanting to install a trailer plug (as we do), you have to splice the wires in at the tail lights instead an adapter or splicing at the harness on the frame under the bed.
The wires on the Ryco kit are a very small gauge, making them feel cheap and flimsy.

Both kits come with reasonably clear instructions for installation but the Ryco kit has instructions for the General and Ranger so thereā€™s a bit jumping around to get to the part you need.

Overall, both kits get the job done. Personally I like the Ryco kit for having the hazards and horn included and all together and I like the brake light strobing function.
 
Pulling off plastic panels scares the hell out of me , Iā€™m always afraid of not getting them back together straight
They actually aren't too bad at all. Just get the right tools to pull the pins. The panels actually come on an off very well. Dash can be a tad tricky but I could do it in my sleep now. I will say, the bolts that are the windshield gas mounts, which you have to remove to remove the dash, are at a very delicate angle and you have to be very careful putting them back in and getting them started. I ended up at the wrong angle, thankfully realized it, but still had to chase the threads with a tap to get it to thread in. Pay attention to the angle before you remove those mounts and maybe event take a pic before removal so you can reference the angle they go in with.
 
They actually aren't too bad at all. Just get the right tools to pull the pins. The panels actually come on an off very well. Dash can be a tad tricky but I could do it in my sleep now. I will say, the bolts that are the windshield gas mounts, which you have to remove to remove the dash, are at a very delicate angle and you have to be very careful putting them back in and getting them started. I ended up at the wrong angle, thankfully realized it, but still had to chase the threads with a tap to get it to thread in. Pay attention to the angle before you remove those mounts and maybe event take a pic before removal so you can reference the angle they go in with.
Agree - Iā€™ve had a handful of bolts around the machine that didnā€™t like to start and could have easily stripped. Rear seat back was a pain in that regard.
 
Dealer says Ryco kits are shipping today so hopefully Iā€™ll have mine Monday.
Ryco sucks. Instructions are awful. Had to use the WD electronics youtube video to figure it out. Pixs are too small and you can't blow them up enough to see any details. Works good but I will never buy another.
 
Ryco sucks. Instructions are awful. Had to use the WD electronics youtube video to figure it out. Pixs are too small and you can't blow them up enough to see any details. Works good but I will never buy another.
The things I like about Ryco is having the hazards and horn integrated into the turn signal switch and the brake light strobing feature. The taillight hookups were over complicated because they tried making a universal Polaris wiring kit. WDā€™s kit was definitely simpler.
I used the Ryco kit on my Xpedition but used a WD trailer harness adapter to tie it in at the back.
 
The things I like about Ryco is having the hazards and horn integrated into the turn signal switch and the brake light strobing feature. The taillight hookups were over complicated because they tried making a universal Polaris wiring kit. WDā€™s kit was definitely simpler.
I used the Ryco kit on my Xpedition but used a WD trailer harness adapter to tie it in at the back.
On my XP5 two cables were too short (main power and wires to turn signals). The cable going from the dash to the brake lights was one piece. It needs to unplug so you can remove the bed for service, so I cut it and added a waterproof connector. I went with the Ryco in the first place because it had a real blinker switch, the WD showed switches on the dash. Looking back for the amount of frustration the Ryco gave me I should have went with the WD. Heck the WD install video alone should have been good enough reason to go with WD
 

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