Stock wheel offset Xpedition

Jimbo

Member
Oct 10, 2023
43
37
Iowa
So I seen on the Polaris website they are coming out with new wheels that fit stock wheels offset, which they say is +61.8mm offset Is what they’re showing. Can anyone confirm what I’m reading? Because if true there’s only a very few after market wheels that are available to keep you under the 65 inch wheel width requirement In some Midwest states.
 
System 3 has their SB6 And SB7 series with the standard offset for Xpeditions,

Method has their 407 and 412 series that are only 6” wide but maintain the standard offset.

Tusk has their Uinta and Tintic series

ITP has their Hurricane series.

That’s what I’ve been able to find so far.
 
I run stock offset S3 SB6 and think mine still measured between 66 and 67 wide. I dont ride anywhere with a width restriction but would probably be tight or not doable if I did.
 
I went to System3 SB6 wheels with 33" ITP Coyote tires and I'm about 68" wide now. I was about 65". I'm measuring at the bulge.
 

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What are considerations when installing 5 / 2 wheels on an X as opposed to the +61.8mm offset / stock offset. thanks in advance for your consideration, Will this cause rubbing, smaller tire size limitation?, larger tire size maximum, warranty violation, 64 inch trail restrictions, bolt pattern constrains. Is it correct to suggest that the stock wheel is roughly +4.5 / -2.5 offset? on a 7 inch wheel?
 
What are considerations when installing 5 / 2 wheels on an X as opposed to the +61.8mm offset / stock offset. thanks in advance for your consideration, Will this cause rubbing, smaller tire size limitation?, larger tire size maximum, warranty violation, 64 inch trail restrictions, bolt pattern constrains. Is it correct to suggest that the stock wheel is roughly +4.5 / -2.5 offset? on a 7 inch wheel?
I have 1” lug adapters and 4/3 offset wheels on my XP5. It doesn’t affect tire sizes at all. I could easily fit 32s or 33s without rubbing. As for trail restrictions, it depends on how strict they are about the restrictions, but you’ll definitely be wider. Probably around 68”.
As far as as the warranty is concerned, the factory warranty is only 6 months. If you’re concerned about that just wait a bit, but it’s unlikely it’ll be a problem. And finally, 5/4.5 lug UTV wheels are a fairly new thing, starting with the Pro Rs, but wheel manufacturers are adding new options pretty quickly. There are several manufacturers that have had 5 lug wheels available for a while, including; Method, Packard, Hostile, System 3 and others.
 
I have 1” lug adapters and 4/3 offset wheels on my XP5. It doesn’t affect tire sizes at all. I could easily fit 32s or 33s without rubbing. As for trail restrictions, it depends on how strict they are about the restrictions, but you’ll definitely be wider. Probably around 68”.
As far as as the warranty is concerned, the factory warranty is only 6 months. If you’re concerned about that just wait a bit, but it’s unlikely it’ll be a problem. And finally, 5/4.5 lug UTV wheels are a fairly new thing, starting with the Pro Rs, but wheel manufacturers are adding new options pretty quickly. There are several manufacturers that have had 5 lug wheels available for a while, including; Method, Packard, Hostile, System 3 and others.
thanks for confirming this... that opens up many more wheels I can consider.
 
would the lug adapters be necessary in my example? I like the wider stance they would give. not concerned about wider stance... in fact I prefer.
I used the adapters to go from 5/4.5 to 4/156 so I could use the Raceline beadlocks that I had on my General, they’re 4/3 offset and put my overall width at 72”
 
So I am looking at buying these wheels for my xpedition. 5 +1 offset. Am I gaining any width because these are only 6" wheels where the stock wheels are 7" wide with a .68mm off set.
 

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Thank you for your post. I am looking to put 33x10’s all the way around and upgrading rims to 15x7 5/4.5 5x2. Will this widen the wheel base from stock and if so by how much?
The stock wheels are a 6/1 offset so a 5/2 will only add about 2” to your width. Depending on the brand of wheel of course… the majority of brands using the x/x offset measure from the edge of the wheel to the hub face. Packard Performance, however, measures from the edge of the wheel to where the center plate bolts to the wheel, so the hub face is around an inch further in. Basically a Packard 5/2 offset wheel is closer to other brand’s 4/3 offset.
 
I like 5+2. Gives you a little more stability and doesn't mess with the steering geometry like a 4+3 does.
Having said that I have been 68" wide since I got the machine and it's still too tippy. I will be installing the SATV long travel kit in the next month and should be 74" wide when done
 
The stock wheels are a 6/1 offset so a 5/2 will only add about 2” to your width. Depending on the brand of wheel of course… the majority of brands using the x/x offset measure from the edge of the wheel to the hub face. Packard Performance, however, measures from the edge of the wheel to where the center plate bolts to the wheel, so the hub face is around an inch further in. Basically a Packard 5/2 offset wheel is closer to other brand’s 4/3 offset.
Thank you. Being new to this sport, I have really tried to learn from others. Your explanation was very helpful. You referenced Packard Performance for wheels. These appear to be top tier wheels. Do you have any other suggestions?
 
I have been using STI beadlocks for the past 12 years. Never had a problem with them. They're more a budget-friendly wheel. But then again I ride on rocks a lot and they're going to get beat up so I don't want an expensive one
 
Method, Hostile, Raceline, Valor, and System 3 are some of the brands I know of that have wheels for the Xpedition. I’ve had personal experience with Raceline and Method wheels and they were great. All of those have more budget friendly options whereas Packard is pretty expensive across the board.
Typically, beadlocks will be more expensive, both for the wheel and tire mounting/dismounting, than non-beadlock wheels.
Method has an alternative to beadlocks that they call “Beadgrip”. Those have ridges in the bead that grip the tire better than standard wheels lessen the chance of popping a bead when you’re running low tire pressures. They also mount and dismount tires the same as a standard wheel, so you shouldn’t have a problem with shops that refuse to do beadlocks.

I’m personally a fan of beadlock wheels on my SxSs as I can wind up riding in sandy areas as easily as rocks or desert trails, and being able to drop my tire pressures down to 6-8 psi makes running the dunes much better. I can’t say any of those brands are better than the others (aside from the Beadgrip only being offered by Method). As far as I can tell, it comes down to personal preference in the styles they offer.
 
System 3 has their SB6 And SB7 series with the standard offset for Xpeditions,

Method has their 407 and 412 series that are only 6” wide but maintain the standard offset.

Tusk has their Uinta and Tintic series

ITP has their Hurricane series.

That’s what I’ve been able to find so far.
Kind of late, but the pro armor wheels (polaris stock brand) are HUB centric and the aftermarkets are LUG centric. I just watched some Shock Therapy videos and now I am questioning my whole existence. What do you guys think? These two videos are older, but the concept is the same. JT, I wondered if you had found any issues with your offsets with your new Packards?





I am wondering if I should change my front wheel from a 15x7 4+3 (System 3 SB7s) to a 15x7 6+1 (System 3 SB7s) for my SAND tires. The back, I can live with the offset 15x10 4+3. These rims will only be used for Sand. I am wondering if I should pick up 2 more wheels in the 15x7 6+1 SB7s and use them on the front and If needed to, take the sand tires off the 15x7 4+3s and use them in the back for regular tires (rock climbing, trails, etc.) I am not going to be adding long travel, etc. I am staying at 30" tires right now, maybe, 32 later but I wondered if staying close to stock will alleviate all the headaches down the road when I start to mess with what the engineers designed?
 
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Kind of late, but the pro armor wheels (polaris stock brand) are HUB centric and the aftermarkets are LUG centric. I just watched some Shock Therapy videos and now I am questioning my whole existence. What do you guys think? These two videos are older, but the concept is the same. JT, I wondered if you had found any issues with your offsets with your new Packards?





I am wondering if I should change my front wheel from a 15x7 4+3 (System 3 SB7s) to a 15x7 6+1 (System 3 SB7s) for my SAND tires. The back, I can live with the offset 15x10 4+3. These rims will only be used for Sand. I am wondering if I should pick up 2 more wheels in the 15x7 6+1 SB7s and use them on the front and If needed to, take the sand tires off the 15x7 4+3s and use them in the back for regular tires (rock climbing, trails, etc.) I am not going to be adding long travel, etc. I am staying at 30" tires right now, maybe, 32 later but I wondered if staying close to stock will alleviate all the headaches down the road when I start to mess with what the engineers designed?

So, first, hub centric vs lug centric is just the way the wheel centers itself to the hub. Any lug system with tapered lug nuts are lug centric even if they’re backed up by a centering hub. Hub centric is where the hub centers itself to the wheel without tapered lugs. Typically these will have lug with an integral flat washer and a flat lug nut surface on the wheel. The hubs on the front of the Xpedition are fully lug centric, with no hub surface extended past the brake rotor and the rear hubs are lug centric backed up with a hub lip that the wheel can seat on. The lip on the rear hub helps distribute load so that it’s not just dependent on the shear strength of the lug bolts. I’m guessing that’s because of the extra weight at the rear of the machine, but I’m not certain.
All of the aftermarket wheels I’ve dealt with are lug centric and also fit closely to the lip on the rear hubs. Packard wheels in particular are very close tolerances to that lip.

On to those videos the first one is specific to the KRX suspension, but now also applies to the Maverick R. Those are the only two SxSs (that I’m aware of) that have focused their suspension on track width scrub, and wheel offsets can affect that a little.
On the second video, he makes some very good points, but he’s also very opinionated. He’d probably have a coronary if he saw the offset on my wheels.🤣 I chose my wheel offset, knowing the risks and downsides. The deeper the offset, the greater the stresses on components, especially on the front end. Yes, it’s putting more stress on the ball joints and bearings. And yes it’s putting more strain on the steering components. There is definitely more steering feedback than with the stock wheel offset… but I’ve never experienced the wheel yanking like he describes. The additional steering feedback doesn’t bother me. I’d say that comes down to personal preference. And yes, I expect it’s likely to wear out the steering gear faster than normal. These are definitely things a person should consider before altering the factory engineered design of the machine.
The benefits of the deeper offset wheels, to me, is better stability on off-camber trails and higher speeds with the wider stance, a softer ride, and ( a matter of personal opinion) the look of my machine.

So, to your question… should you change your wheels to a lesser offset? That’s completely up to you! If you still have your stock wheels, you could try a run with them, and then do the same run with the System 3s you have. Then, with the understanding that there will be a higher possibility of components wearing out or failing, make the choice that works best for you.

I can tell you my experience. On my 2019 General, I ran 4/3 offset wheels for the 3000 miles that I had it, without issue. On my Xpedition I used those same 4/3 offset wheels with a 1” adapter for the first 1000 miles and then another 1700 miles on these Packard wheels, without any problems. While I don’t drive like a complete idiot, I’m also not particularly nice on my machine. I make it earn what I paid for it 😂
I expect, sooner or later, I’ll be replacing some parts, but it’s going great so far!
 
Another thing I didn’t see him discuss in the second video is tire height affecting the turning scrub radius. Since the factory machine comes with 30” tires, going to a larger tire would shift that scrub radius towards the inside if you keep the factory offset wheels. Basically, with 32”-33” tires, a 5/2 offset would be closer to a centered scrub radius and a 4/3 would only add a little to it. People using a 35”+ tire with a 6/1 or 5/2 offset wheel would still have a negative scrub radius… if that makes sense.
 

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