Schmidty dual rate springs and high volume nitrogen endcaps

[johndeerefarmer]

After installing the SATV long travel kit, the stock springs were about collapsed. I ordered Schmidty Racing Suspension springs and their high volume nitrogen end caps. The springs are made by Swift. I had just bought a 20cf bottle of nitrogen and regulator to pressure test a mini split I am installing so all I had to buy was a no loss chuck and adapter to fit the charging hose.
I put 200 psi in the shocks per Schmidty’s instructions.

Basically remove the snap ring, remove the old end cap. Then install new end cap and charge with nitrogen. Schmidty recommends charging the end cap, then release the charge to remove all air that was in the reservoir and then recharge again to 200 psi.

Schmidty gives you preload dimensions for the front and back shocks. They go by total shock length to set preload- not the measurement of preload collar from the top of the shock. For example the new front springs on the Xpedition are 18 ½” long uncompressed (6” tender, ½” spring divider and 12” main spring). To set preload to 2 3/8” you compress the springs with the preload collar until the total spring length is 16 1/8” including the spring slider.

Then install the included crossover rings at the specified location.

I did end up buying the Jack Tech SK-3000 spring compressor. I have used some of the cheap Amazon spring compressors in the past to just take enough pressure off so I could add more preload. Using then trying to remove the old springs I ended up breaking one of them in half. When it broke it hit me in the hand and sent my Milwaukee impact flying across the shop. Since I have three SXS’s and a step kid with two more I figure it will get plenty of use.

The front shocks on the Xpedition are easy. The rear requires more work. I had to disconnect the sway bar and take the upper A arm loose from the steering knuckle.

Schmidty sets ride height based on exposed shock shaft. On the front he wants 5” and on the rear 6 3/8”.

This gave me on the front an axle angle of about 14 degrees, ground clearance of 17 ½” (with 32” tires) and a width of 74.5”. This is with no people in the machine.

I need to remove the rear shocks again and adjust them a little more as I am at 6” instead of 6 3/8” shock shaft length but at the moment the rear axle angle is 13 degrees, ground clearance is 15.5” and its 76” wide.



I will get the rears readjusted today and after a few rides, report back.

 

[johndeerefarmer]

Not sure why it posted the same pixs twice

 

[JTBarlow]

That’s going to be a big improvement.
And I definitely agree on the spring compressor. If you’re doing more than one set of springs, it’s worth the investment. Breaking the cheap compressor could’ve been a really bad deal.

 

[johndeerefarmer]

I added another 1/2" of preload to the rear. Rear is still 1/4" off but close enough for now. I will let the springs settle for awhile and then readjust one more time.
I am getting pretty good at pulling off the rear shocks. My Milwaukee long nose ratchet help as does my Astro Nano pinless wobble sockets.
I have learned to just remove the upper a arm from the steering knuckle, then pull the sway bar bolt. I can then slip the shock out fairly easily.
The new shocks have crossover rings. Half the time the springs are covering up some of the screws and you can't tighten them up. So what I have started doing is to remove the springs. Crank preload ring down to where you want it. Loosen the screws on the crossover ring. Reinstall springs and spring retainer. Now set crossover ring in the proper location. Remove springs again so you can access the screws on the cross over ring and tighten them down. Reinstall springs and spring retainer.
The Jack Tech SK-3000 makes this easy though I do think I might either bolt it down to the floor or a piece of plywood so it's not so tippy when I am cranking on the handle.
I am also probably going to spray several coats of Plasti Dip on the hooks as they scuff up the springs quite a bit.