Danny
New member
has anyone found a reasonably cost effective way to reduce noise in XP northstar cab?
noise issue.
- Thread starter Danny
- Start date
DogRunner21
Active member
Is this your first sxs? I find the noise minimal compared to any other machine I've had.
charles p
New member
i just ordered a speedwerx clutch kit. go to their website and watch the video. supposed to reduce cab noise.
DogRunner21
Active member
A clutch kit is going to lower ram's, which reduces power.
garciava6
Member
not necessarily. most clutch kits give you optimum hp at a given rpm. lower rpm doesn't mean less power. Factory clutching is set up for the average all-around performance.
You’re correct that OEM clutching, like nearly everything else on the machine, is setup for average, all-around performance.
The Prostar II engine used in the Xpeditions was designed for the RZR XP as a high rpm motor.
Fuel maps, Timing, Cams etc all affect horsepower and torque. On a Dyno, that would be shown as an arc. Clutching determines where, on that power arc, the clutch engages and shifts. Lowering the engagement/shift point of the clutch lowers the point on that arc that the engine operates, thereby reducing output to the ground.
A lot of people will never notice the difference and/or don’t really care about peak performance from the machine. And a lot of people do. It really comes down to personal preference and riding style.
The Prostar II engine used in the Xpeditions was designed for the RZR XP as a high rpm motor.
Fuel maps, Timing, Cams etc all affect horsepower and torque. On a Dyno, that would be shown as an arc. Clutching determines where, on that power arc, the clutch engages and shifts. Lowering the engagement/shift point of the clutch lowers the point on that arc that the engine operates, thereby reducing output to the ground.
A lot of people will never notice the difference and/or don’t really care about peak performance from the machine. And a lot of people do. It really comes down to personal preference and riding style.
johndeerefarmer15
Well-known member
I installed soundproofing every where I could. Probably spent $500 on that. It also helped keep the Texas heat out
I installed larger tires to lower the rpm. $800-1000 if you don't get new rims
I installed the Aftermarket Assassins cruiser clutch kit around $500.
All of these things together makes it tolerable. It's way quieter than my open cab Turbo R is. It's now about as quiet as my full cab General was.
If the heat isn't an issue for you the most cost effective thing is the clutch kit. The only time I notice that I am running it is if I am on the paved roads and wanting to go fast. Takes a LOOOONG time to get up to 50 mph
reactancexl3
New member
Has anyone used this kit before? It says on there website to reduce up to 14 DB which is huge as DB is not linear but logrithmic. Sound Control Kits for Polaris Xpedition
EricB
Member
That looks interesting, but kind of pricey. I used a similar approach using Dynamat. I used it on the outside of the back area by removing the outside panels and the engine cover like the posted mats from your link. I also used a 4ft x 5ft 1/2 inch rubber horse (cost about $55) stall mat I got at a local Feed Store. I made my own floor patterns and used a jigsaw to cut the mate. All of that help a lot. It's noticeable quieter, but I never measured the before and after.
reactancexl3
New member
i am waiting for my ECU to come back and put it back together. I took before DB readings at different RPM. I will post the after DB readings.
attakracer
Active member
But the kits that are on the market right now that reduce noise rob alot of power !! I haven't heard of one to quiet it down and not kill the car !!
reactancexl3
New member
Here are my before and after DB readings ater I put the sound deadening kit.
One think to note the "before" was stock. A clutch kit
and tune from gilomen are my "After" readings. That
is why there are no "before" readings.
Bottom line it has made a noticeable difference
RPM Before After
idle 70 64
3000 78 67
4000 84 72
5000 89 76
6000 95 85
7500 -- 85
8000 -- 90
One think to note the "before" was stock. A clutch kit
and tune from gilomen are my "After" readings. That
is why there are no "before" readings.
Bottom line it has made a noticeable difference
RPM Before After
idle 70 64
3000 78 67
4000 84 72
5000 89 76
6000 95 85
7500 -- 85
8000 -- 90
Has anyone used the soundproofing from Tericks?
Terick 100 mil Sound Deadening Insulation Kits SHIPPING WILL RESUME 7/14/2026
REDUCE HEAT AND NOISE INSIDE THE CAB OF YOUR UTV WITH TERICK 100MIL SORRY FOR THE INCONVENIENCE, WE EXPECT TO BE TAKING AND SHIPPING ORDERS AGAIN ON OR BEFORE 7/14/2026 Terick 100 mil sound deadening material, butyl with foil back Extra Large sheet: 50cm x 80cm (19.6" x 31.5") 4.29 sqft 3...
tericksolutions.com
We’ve always tuned and clutched for performance. Raising the rpms to around 8200-8400, and then go at the noise issue with sound dampening and insulation. We’ve been able to get a 9db drop in noise levels while getting peak performance from the machine.
reactancexl3
New member
I am confused, on kits robbing power. The total weight of my sound deadening is 50 lbs if that. Now regarding the RPMs. My gilomen tune with clutch upgrade takes it all the way up to 9K. Is that too high? It did make it louder with clutch kit, but my readings are with the tune and clutch kit.
Many people go for the Cruiser clutch kits, and all new Xpeditions come with the “comfort clutch”. Both lower the rpm in an effort to make them less noisy. Lower rpms drops the horsepower significantly. My Xpedition, with the Gilomen ECU tune and AA clutch kit, with the throttle switch set to comfort, performs better than a stock Xpedition with the comfort clutch, and the throttle switch set to sport.
As to your machine hitting 9000 rpms. It’s okay to hit that occasionally, but if it jumps straight to 9000 when you stand on the throttle, you need to add some weights. You want the rpms to be between 8200 and 8500 for the best performance. That’s from a dead stop, or rolling up to 10 mph, and then standing on the throttle… up to 55 mph. After 55 mph the clutch is pretty much shifted fully out and additional speed is all rpm. Setting the rpm too high can start out quicker, but will have difficulty getting and maintaining speed.
That said, having the ECU tune can bring back some performance loss from the comfort clutch or cruiser clutch kits by fine tuning the fuel and timing maps for the engine. So for those that want the lower rpms I’d still recommend the ECU tune.
reactancexl3
New member
is it AA or Gilomen that makes the "Crusier Clutch " kits. Or I can add weights to my upgraded Gilomen to get same result?
Both have the cruiser clutch kits. It’s basically their primary clutch weights with slug magnets in all the holes.
With yours running 9000 rpm I’m guessing you have only 1 or 2 magnets in it. Adding weight will depend on its current configuration, but you need at least 2 more per weight. Roughly figure 150 rpm drop per magnet.
The majority of machines I’ve done clutch tuning on end up with a 3-2-0 or 3-2-1, starting at the heel.
Also worth noting is Gilomen and AA have slightly different profiles on their primary weights. And if I recall correctly, Gilomen has 4 main holes where AA has 3. I had difficulty dialing in the rpms on the Gilomen weights on my Xpedition so I switched them out for AA. I’m still running the Gilomen ECU tune though.
Also worth noting is Gilomen and AA have slightly different profiles on their primary weights. And if I recall correctly, Gilomen has 4 main holes where AA has 3. I had difficulty dialing in the rpms on the Gilomen weights on my Xpedition so I switched them out for AA. I’m still running the Gilomen ECU tune though.
Polaris Xpedition Photos
Polaris Xpedition Photos
Similar threads
Latest Discussions
-
New here and new to xpeditions, looking to see if I can make it work.
- Started by Bajald
- Replies: 10
-
-
-
-