Insulated coolant lines

[johndeerefarmer]

Today I insulated the coolant lines from the front to the rear. What I did was take some Thermotec and stick it to some Siless sound deadening foam (sticky side to sticky side). I installed one piece on top of the coolant lines with the shiny side towards the lines to hopefully keep the heat away from the cab. I then installed lower pieces below the lines and tied them in place with cable ties. As was mentioned in another post you can't use foam pipe wrap on these like I did my Turbo R so this was what I came up with. We will try this and if still not good enough I will remove the tunnel and use Thermotec on the sides of it. First pix is the Siless sound deadening foam stuck to the Thermotec

 

[Patyacht]

Please don't forget to let us know!

 

[NKYHUNTER]

ok so what lines are the ac and others heat? if you enclosed all of them wouldn't the ac lines get heated?

 

[johndeerefarmer]

ok so what lines are the ac and others heat? if you enclosed all of them wouldn't the ac lines get heated?

I thought of that as well. Not sure. I tried it yesterday. Polaris didn't insulate them so I guess they figure heat doesn't matter.
Results are below of how insulating the lines did.

Tested the AC again after insulating the coolant lines. Outside temp was 95-99 vs 105 or so last trip. Xpedition was inside so temp inside cabin was probably 75 degrees. I took it for the same test run as before at 40 mph. Only about 8 miles. It was cool in the cab but not cold. I stuck my dad's old HVAC thermometers in the vents to compare to the Fluke IR gun.
I found that the cupholder was now 90 instead of 125. Accounting for the cooler outside temperature cupholder was still better but I still need to insulate the inside of the tunnel. Floor board was over 100 everywhere I checked it. I guess the heat from the coolant lines is heating the entire area between the skid plate and floor board. Later on I may have to insulate the bottom of the floor board. I will wait until I get a new skidplate from SATV and do that at the same time.
Both analog thermometers were showing 51. The Fluke IR gun showed 41 to 52. That's the problem with IR guns. Depending upon how glossy, or what color the object is the readings are off. I could shoot at different spots inside the vent and get 20 different readings.
In the next week or so I am going to have 70% ceramic tint installed. Then remove the tunnel, insulate it and maybe later the floorboards.

 

[Jimbo]

I thought of that as well. Not sure. I tried it yesterday. Polaris didn't insulate them so I guess they figure heat doesn't matter.
Results are below of how insulating the lines did.

Tested the AC again after insulating the coolant lines. Outside temp was 95-99 vs 105 or so last trip. Xpedition was inside so temp inside cabin was probably 75 degrees. I took it for the same test run as before at 40 mph. Only about 8 miles. It was cool in the cab but not cold. I stuck my dad's old HVAC thermometers in the vents to compare to the Fluke IR gun.
I found that the cupholder was now 90 instead of 125. Accounting for the cooler outside temperature cupholder was still better but I still need to insulate the inside of the tunnel. Floor board was over 100 everywhere I checked it. I guess the heat from the coolant lines is heating the entire area between the skid plate and floor board. Later on I may have to insulate the bottom of the floor board. I will wait until I get a new skidplate from SATV and do that at the same time.
Both analog thermometers were showing 51. The Fluke IR gun showed 41 to 52. That's the problem with IR guns. Depending upon how glossy, or what color the object is the readings are off. I could shoot at different spots inside the vent and get 20 different readings.
In the next week or so I am going to have 70% ceramic tint installed. Then remove the tunnel, insulate it and maybe later the floorboards.

Thank you for the detailed info! Plan on doing mine as well when I receive it. Also with all the other sound deadening for back firewall with Dynamat and 1” Dynacore And the flooring with Dynadeck. Hopefully it will help out some. Every little bit helps!

 

[johndeerefarmer]

I went back and modified it slightly. I took off the bottom pieces of insulation. Then I only insulated the suction refrigerant line (the large one) the best I could to keep the heat off of it. Also took the tunnel completely apart, which means remove the dash first and insulated it the best I could. Insulated the access panels above the seat and fuel tank too.

 

[NKYHUNTER]

any pointers on how to get the dash out this thing seems endless with screws and push pins and still not off.

 

[johndeerefarmer]

any pointers on how to get the dash out this thing seems endless with screws and push pins and still not off.

Find the video on YouTube of WD electronics installing their turn signal kit. They show you where all the hidden fasteners are

 

[NKYHUNTER]

Find the video on YouTube of WD electronics installing their turn signal kit. They show you where all the hidden fasteners are

I did that and I still seem to be missing something not sure what ?

 

[johndeerefarmer]

I did that and I still seem to be missing something not sure what ?

Are you trying to remove the upper section of the dash or the lower section? If it's the lower section there's two screws on the front firewall. One for each side

 

[NKYHUNTER]

oh well now I'm hoping it's those 2 screws because I haven't removed those 2 yet. Will try those tomorrow!!

 

[johndeerefarmer]

oh well now I'm hoping it's those 2 screws because I haven't removed those 2 yet. Will try those tomorrow!!

Any luck? Merry Christmas!

 

[NKYHUNTER]

Been out of town for the holidays so no haven't had the chance to get to it, had to scramble out the door the other day and guess it will be hopefully my newyears present to me!! If it works!!