Small Knock in Motor or Clutch?

Dale's Snake Pit

New member
Oct 12, 2024
14
6
Fort Mohave Az.
2025 ADV5 Northstar with 8 hours and 86 miles. I have a small knock sound either in the motor or the clutch, only at idle. This knock was not there when I first got it and started about 80 miles in on break-in period. Are these motors a bit louder (knocking) in the break-in period? I might be overreacting, but this motor definitely has a different sound at idle than my Pro-XP. It also could be coming from the clutch; I am just not sure. Does anyone out there on the forum know what I am talking about, or should I take it to the dealer? I thought I would ask all of you first, my dealer where I live is not known for having a good service department. I would have to probably trailer it 150 miles to a reputable dealer in Las Vegas.
 
It’s normal for the clutches to have a clicking sound at an idle. There’s a small gap between the wear sleeves on the spider and wear plates on the towers of the primary clutch that can cause a clicking or rattling sound until it’s under load.
 
The clutch rattle/tick is something that’s always there at an idle.
Here’s mine if you want to compare.

 
Ours had the same knock and then the engine just went out a few weeks ago. Kept taking it in and the dealer said it was normal. I'd highly recommend purchasing the Polaris extended warranty through your dealer.
 
Ours had the same knock and then the engine just went out a few weeks ago. Kept taking it in and the dealer said it was normal. I'd highly recommend purchasing the Polaris extended warranty through your dealer.
Jholbrook, when you say the motor "just went out" what do you mean? Did it blow up? rod thru the crank case? or is it seized?
 
They're thinking it's a bad rod bearing.

Was out on a ride and had it die on us. It was running just fine but then the check engine light came on and it made a weird noise (sounded like a heat shield came lose or a chain rattling) and smelt like the belt went out and then quit running. This whole chain of events was about 10 seconds long.

We pulled the cover for the belt and it was totally fine but the engine was seized. Luckily it was right by the truck so we got it on the trailer and brought it home.

The code it gave on the Ride Command screen is the “Driver Solenoid Circuit Error.” This code has sense gone away and there are no check engine lights or codes on anymore.

Drained the oil and no signs of metal in it and it starts up just fine now and doesn’t blow any smoke. When you rev it up it makes a knocking/rattling noise. There is still a burnt rubber smell when you rev the engine but isn’t blowing smoke out of the exhaust.

The dealer is going to have to rip the engine out and most likely replace the whole thing.
 
They're thinking it's a bad rod bearing.

Was out on a ride and had it die on us. It was running just fine but then the check engine light came on and it made a weird noise (sounded like a heat shield came lose or a chain rattling) and smelt like the belt went out and then quit running. This whole chain of events was about 10 seconds long.

We pulled the cover for the belt and it was totally fine but the engine was seized. Luckily it was right by the truck so we got it on the trailer and brought it home.

The code it gave on the Ride Command screen is the “Driver Solenoid Circuit Error.” This code has sense gone away and there are no check engine lights or codes on anymore.

Drained the oil and no signs of metal in it and it starts up just fine now and doesn’t blow any smoke. When you rev it up it makes a knocking/rattling noise. There is still a burnt rubber smell when you rev the engine but isn’t blowing smoke out of the exhaust.

The dealer is going to have to rip the engine out and most likely replace the whole thing.
If you don't mind me asking, what year, miles, and hours did you have on it? Did you have the extended warranty, or did this happen within the 6-month warranty?
 
2024 and I think it has around 1500 miles on it. Not sure how many hours off the top of my head. No extended warranty and unfortunately didn't happen under the 6 month warranty either. We have babied the machine too.
 
Not 100% sure yet... The engine has to be torn apart and then submitted. Sucks to have to pay $1,500 to have it torn apart and diagnosed and then risk them not even fixing it under a good faith claim. I'd prefer to take it to a local shop that won't charge as much to do everything but then don't have the option of having Polaris potentially doing it under warranty.
 
Not 100% sure yet... The engine has to be torn apart and then submitted. Sucks to have to pay $1,500 to have it torn apart and diagnosed and then risk them not even fixing it under a good faith claim. I'd prefer to take it to a local shop that won't charge as much to do everything but then don't have the option of having Polaris potentially doing it under warranty.
Well, good luck with your claim. I hope I don't end up with the same problem.
 

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