I purchased some 1/4 thick closed cell foam insulation with foil on one side to install in the cab of my Xpedition ADV2 Northstar. The purpose was twofold. Quiet the cab and help the ac to cool better. I installed this behind the seats and in the roof. It definitely helped the ac. Today it was 97 degrees and the ac worked great. I feel it helped on the noise as long as the rpms were 5000 or lower. Above 5000 I didn't really notice a difference. Unfortunately this machine spends a lot of time over 5000 rpm.
Adding Insulation and Sound Deadener
- Thread starter tdeperte
- Start date
From what I hear on the ADVs, they need all the help they can get with noise reduction. With the XP having the cargo area separated it’s not as big of an issue. They’re still noisy but doesn’t seem like much difference from the General 4 I upgraded from.
- May 16, 2023
- 394
- 262
I'm glad to hear the insulation helped some. I was cruising my Can-Am Defender Max Lone Star Cab today and decided to watch the rpms since I was hearing how high the rpms seem to be on the new Xpedition under normal cruising conditions. At about 25 mph on relatively flat ground, it was holding about 3,900 rpms in High gear. I'm guessing the Defender isn't geared as low as the Xpedition because it usually likes to be around 4,000 rpms.
- Thread starter
- #4
At 25 mph I'm pushing about 5500 rpm. I wish it was closer to 4000 rpm.
Just an update on the insulation topic on my XP 5 Ultimate. Mine is overall quieter than my general was, but it was blowing hot air straight up the shift lever. I pulled the center console box out to see what would need done to block the hot air and it’s completely open under there to the tunnel. That’s not only a problem for comfort but all the fuses and relays are tight there under the console box.
I wound up dropping the front skidplate and installing aluminum lined foam insulation all along the front section of the tunnel and some stiff insulation panels under the shifter and console box area. The parts where I couldn’t get the insulation panels to stay, because of wiring and cables, I stuffed with fiberglass insulation. It’s much better now.
On the schematics, even for the Northstars I don’t see them blocking any of that off, which will reduce the efficiency of the A/C systems.
I wound up dropping the front skidplate and installing aluminum lined foam insulation all along the front section of the tunnel and some stiff insulation panels under the shifter and console box area. The parts where I couldn’t get the insulation panels to stay, because of wiring and cables, I stuffed with fiberglass insulation. It’s much better now.
On the schematics, even for the Northstars I don’t see them blocking any of that off, which will reduce the efficiency of the A/C systems.
I added sound deadening to the air intakes on either side and it definitely seemed to block so noise. in the Northstar there’s a bunch of gaps on the back wall that you can see straight daylight coming through. I spent some time sealing this up as well Which made slight difference. Ultimately its not gonna be quiet since the engine is running 6 to 8000 rpm’s!
When you dropped the skid plate did you have to remove all the bottom side panels as well? I was thinking of adding some that that window high pile brushes by that shifter knob too, it might slow down that air penetration.
Nope. There’s 2 #40 torx bolts on the front on each side, 3 on the bottom side edges and one at the center rear. (Note: the front 4 and center rear are slightly longer than the 6 side ones). Then ten 10mm bolts with cup washers. Once those are all out just pull down in the center of the skidplate and it’ll slide free from the sides. Going back in, I just slid one side in and then held the middle down to push the other side up in. It’s really flexible so it doesn’t take much effort. I did drive it up on ramps to give me more work room though.
johndeerefarmer
Well-known member
Every Polaris that I have had needed pipe insulation on the coolant lines and the tunnel lined with Dynamat.
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