Polaris Rider
New member
How do you index the steering wheel? I’m not finding a compatible puller to get the steering wheel removed.
Steering wheel not straight
- Thread starter Polaris Rider
- Start date
B B
Active member
Was it straight before?
Polaris Rider
New member
- Thread starter
- #3
Loaded it on the trailer and brought it home from dealer. Drove it down the road and noticed it right off. Drives straight but steering wheel is about 1:00
Huntfreak
Member
My current machine and my ranger had the same issue. I’d be curious if anyone has found a resolution to this!
Having two people to do this will make it much easier.
Park the machine with the wheels straight. Loosen the steering wheel nut to flush with end of the shaft. Then with one person pulling up on the steering wheel the other needs to hit the end of the shaft with a hammer.
YOU NEED TO BE VERY CAREFUL NOT TO SMASH THE SHAFT OR DEFORM THE NUT!
Usually 2-3 good whacks will pop it loose.
You can use an impact to loosen the nut but DO NOT use an impact to tighten it back down. There’s a high chance of snapping the end of the shaft off if use an impact wrench to re-install the nut
Don’t do any of these. Mine was off as well. There are several options that basically align the steering. Hold the steering wheel straight and firm. Set up two jacks stands front to back and a string line between them. Measure and adjust jack stands from each side of rear wheel rim the same distance from string. Go to front tie rods loosen nut and turn rod proper direction until both sides of front wheel are same distance from wheel to string. Make sure steering wheel doesn’t move while adjusting. Retighten tie rod nut and do other side. Do search on line for more specific details. Works great
johndeerefarmer
Well-known member
It's not a good idea to hit on the shaft with a hammer. You can damage the EPS. Polaris states this in the manual and there are many posts on people damaging their EPS from doing so.
On the Xpedition the steering rack and eps are one piece so very expensive $2549.00
Perhaps I should specify that what I described is for experienced mechanics or something… I’ve used that method on every Brand and nearly every model SxS, including multiple Xpeditions. There is risk of damage if not performed correctly, so definitely don’t attempt it if you’re not certain.
As to the adjustment to the tie rods, that method shouldn’t be used for steering wheel clocking. It will make so that you will turn sharper one direction than the other.
As to the adjustment to the tie rods, that method shouldn’t be used for steering wheel clocking. It will make so that you will turn sharper one direction than the other.
As you can see, there’s nowhere to hook a puller on an Xpedition steering wheel. Removing this took less than 2 minutes in total and only took a couple taps with the flat end of the 24mm impact socket I loosened the nut with for it to pop loose.
Again, if you’re uncertain, it’s better to be safe and take it to a shop rather than damage your equipment.
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tarkenton09
Member
I took my x3 to an allignment shop after new tie rods. Been straight for years now and was probably 100 bucks.
johndeerefarmer
Well-known member
Beating on the shaft and not damaging the EPS is not skill, it's just luck that haven't don't damaged one yet.
You're supposed to remove the upper steering shaft,steering assembly and steering wheel as one piece. THEN remove the steering wheel.
You're supposed to remove the upper steering shaft,steering assembly and steering wheel as one piece. THEN remove the steering wheel.
My unit required 1/2 a turn on each tie rod (one in and one out) to straighten the wheel. What you described isn't the solution, you want the front wheels parallel to each other for proper alignment. The string line only trues up the front tires to the rear which isn't how you properly align a vehicle.
johndeerefarmer
Well-known member
Yep. Steering wheel has to be straight first otherwise you won't have the same amount of steering to each direction
I also checked the distance between front wheels on front and back of inside the rims and they were the same. My question is why are these coming out of the factory this way? The lack of quality checks is concerning.
There’s definitely been some poor quality control on many of these Xpeditions. Out of the 8 different Xpeditions I’ve worked on thus far, all of them needed the ride height adjusted. Two have had loose yokes, one on the transmission output shaft, one on the front diff. Two have had the bad clunking in the front end (I haven’t looked into that since the owners didn’t ask me to). One had loose a-arm bolts and actually lost one of them resulting in warranty frame replacement. And there’s almost always spare bolts, screws and nuts laying around. Haven’t seen one yet with improper alignment, but I’m sure I will eventually
There’s definitely been some poor quality control on many of these Xpeditions. Out of the 8 different Xpeditions I’ve worked on thus far, all of them needed the ride height adjusted. Two have had loose yokes, one on the transmission output shaft, one on the front diff. Two have had the bad clunking in the front end (I haven’t looked into that since the owners didn’t ask me to). One had loose a-arm bolts and actually lost one of them resulting in warranty frame replacement. And there’s almost always spare bolts, screws and nuts laying around. Haven’t seen one yet with improper alignment, but I’m sure I will eventually
It's funny you say that about spare bolts. My son was working on his car next to my brand new Xpedition, he was struggling to get his aluminum wheels off and was using my Xpedition for leverage, when rocking on it a brand new 12mm headed bolt fell out of my machine. No idea where it came from, but it was certainly never installed based on the blue loctite that hadn't been touched. I'm far from impressed with this machine, Polaris really missed it on the quality control.
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